Wilfried Gebhardt vividly recalls his inaugural submersion at Apo Reef, a dive that occurred more than three decades ago. The former German geographer had recently relocated to Sablayan, a town situated on Mindoro island, to the southwest of Manila, to provide aid to those affected by the catastrophic 1991 eruption of Mount Pinatubo. During his stay, whispers of a mystical underwater realm nearby piqued his interest. "The visibility was a staggering 60 meters—it was utterly breathtaking," Gebhardt, now 68, reminisces about his maiden dive. "I encountered hammerhead sharks, Napoleon wrasse, and sea turtles gracefully gliding past a coral wall."

Apo Reef Natural Park, located off the coast of Sablayan, encompasses an area of 13 square miles (approximately 33 square kilometers), making it the globe's second-largest continuous coral reef ecosystem, just behind Australia's Great Barrier Reef, as recognized by UNESCO. This underwater paradise is a haven for marine biodiversity, boasting over 530 fish species and 400 coral varieties. "I've explored dive sites across the globe, yet Apo Reef remains a perennial favorite," Gebhardt shares, now enjoying his retirement in Germany alongside his spouse, Klaudia. "Its splendor is truly unparalleled."

When Gebhardt first began his underwater adventures in Apo Reef during the early 1990s, the reef's beauty was undeniable, yet it was under siege. Despite its designation as a marine sanctuary, the reef suffered from the detrimental effects of dynamite and cyanide fishing, leading to coral damage and bleaching. These practices were outlawed, but the lack of patrol vessels for the Apo rangers at the time made enforcement a daunting task. "While diving, the underwater explosions were audible, and the cyanide would cause a burning sensation in your eyes," Gebhardt recounts.

Alarmed by the reef's plight, Gebhardt, along with local advocates—including Sablayan's Municipal Administration and the proprietors of Pandan Island Resort, a pioneering eco-friendly dive resort to the east of the reef—urged the Philippines' Department of Environmental and Natural Resources (DENR) to intensify conservation efforts. Consequently, Apo Reef and its adjacent waters were granted the status of a protected natural park in 1996. In 2007, a no-take zone was instituted, forbidding any form of extraction or destruction of natural resources within the park and its surrounding buffer zone. Presently, Apo Reef Natural Park stands as the Philippines' second-largest no-take zone.

According to Krystal Dayne Villanada, the superintendent in charge of Apo Reef Natural Park's daily operations, two initiatives have been particularly effective: the acquisition of high-speed watercraft and the enhancement of the rangers' capabilities. "These watercraft have significantly improved the efficiency and effectiveness of patrols and enforcement in the area," Villanada explains. "The rangers have been trained not only in law enforcement but also in biodiversity monitoring. Thanks to their efforts, we now have scientifically sound data on bird populations, fish, benthos, and mangrove ecosystems, which inform our management strategies."

Furthermore, the DENR has implemented guidelines for sustainable diving and snorkeling, banned single-use plastics, and established a strict visitor limit to minimize the environmental impact of tourism on the park. These endeavors have earned Apo Reef the esteemed Platinum Blue Park Award from the Marine Conservation Institute in 2022 for its exemplary management practices. The park has also been proposed to UNESCO for potential recognition as a World Heritage Site.

Challenges, however, persist despite the enhanced protection. Jan Sidney "Sid" Mahusay, a dive master at Pandan Island Resort, has witnessed positive transformations over the years but believes there is room for further improvement. "Enhanced enforcement efforts are necessary, perhaps two or three times the current level," Mahusay suggests to Travel, noting that the modest salaries of rangers might dampen their motivation. "Illegal fishing still occurs—line and hook, fishing nets, spearfishing, compressor fishing, and more have been observed."

Villanada echoes the call for greater support for the rangers. "Rangers are the cornerstone of the protected area's operations," she asserts. "They deserve not only fair wages and improved living conditions but also job security. Most are employed on a contractual basis, with no permanent positions available."

Mahuay is also concerned about the impact of typhoons, particularly in the shallow areas where corals can be overturned and destroyed. Gebhardt concurs, stating, "Storms can be catastrophic—currently, they pose the greatest threat." For the local Filipino population, the park has opened up new opportunities, as Mahusay can attest. Raised on a rice and corn farm, he was familiar with the reef but had never visited until a job as a dive master at Pandan Island became available in 2015. "I knew little about the sea," he admits. "I struggled at first, but I'm glad I persevered. The reef is astonishing—teeming with marine life and vibrant corals."

Now, as a guide, Mahusay takes pride in introducing visitors to Apo's marvels. "While it's not a massive industry, it provides employment for boat operators, resort staff, cooks, and dive professionals," he notes. "It fosters a culture of reef protection rather than exploitation." Villanada points out that the fishing community has also benefited positively. "Apo Reef enriches adjacent municipal waters with fish and coral larvae, serving as fishing grounds for local communities," she explains. Additionally, she highlights the work of the Samahan ng Matyagang Mangingisda, a group of over 30 fishermen engaged by the DENR to develop and manage enterprises that are biodiversity-friendly, including the construction of a boardwalk in Sablayan's mangroves as part of an eco-tourism initiative. "Samahan ng Matyagang Mangingisda manages the project, offering them alternative livelihoods and reducing pressure on marine resources," she says.

Both Mahusay and Gebhardt have a plethora of memories from their dives at Apo Reef. Gebhardt recounts an instance where a manta ray soared overhead, backlit by the sun, and another where he was encircled by thousands of schooling mackerels. "The experience is consistently superb," Gebhardt remarks, who returns to Apo Reef each winter. "Nowadays, I prefer diving around Apo Island, where the corals are the most vibrant." For the more intrepid, sites such as Ego Wall and Shark Airport offer thrilling dives. Ego Wall, named for its sheer drop-off that descends 60 meters, is a test of courage and skill, offering divers a majestic coral garden and the chance to encounter barracudas. "When diving here, you're humbled by nature's grandeur, making you forget your ego," Mahusay says. Meanwhile, Shark Airport is a sandy section of the reef frequented by sharks, who often pause to bask in the sun. Another notable site is Mabuti, which means "good" in Tagalog. "It's good—simple and straightforward, so we named it Mabuti, for us and for the Filipino people," Mahusay explains.

While diving is the main attraction, a visit to Apo Reef also offers other activities. Snorkeling through the shallow coral gardens reveals a spectrum of marine life, from parrotfish to reef sharks. On Apo Island, a brief hike leads to a historic lighthouse, offering panoramic vistas of the reef and the open sea. "It's an excellent spot for capturing photos of the reef's turquoise lagoons and white sand beaches," Mahusay suggests. "Even better with a drone." Apo Reef's remote location demands effort to reach, which has helped protect it from over-tourism. In 2023, only 2,793 visitors made the journey, a significant decrease from the peak of 7,586 in 2017. A handful of dive resorts, liveaboards, and basic guesthouses in the vicinity offer day trips or overnight adventures to the reef. As per regulations, tourists must be accompanied by an accredited guide to visit the natural park. The optimal time to visit is during the dry season, from December to May, when the seas are calm, and visibility is at its best. All levels of certified divers are welcome, although some areas of the reef necessitate more experience. "Apo Reef often features strong currents," Gebhardt notes. "Even at 20 meters, you can observe a wealth of marine life, but the coral walls extend much deeper." The most crucial aspect is that visitors respect the natural environment. As Mahusay succinctly puts it: "Preserving the reef is vital for future generations to experience this wondrous place."