Democracy has ancient roots, and the Lycians, who once governed the southwest region of present-day Turkey, were no strangers to this form of governance. Two millennia ago, they established a democratic federation that would later influence the political framework of the United States. Amidst the current global challenges faced by democracies, a different legacy of the Lycians endures in the Mediterranean—a legacy centered on the concept of death. A drive along the coast reveals the proximity of the deceased to the living, with the Lycians' elaborate tombs etched into cliffs, overlooking towns, valleys, and the sea. These are not the only remnants; grand sarcophagi, likely housing the remains of Lycia's elite, are scattered across the landscape, often seamlessly integrated into the urban environment. For history enthusiasts, seeking out these monuments is an adventure that requires a mix of exploration and historical curiosity. While some tombs are preserved within ticketed archaeological sites, others are open to the public, demanding a level of determination and skill akin to that of an Indiana Jones to uncover.

A suitable starting point for this journey is Fethiye, a laid-back port city that serves as a gateway to the beaches and attractions along Turkey's Turquoise Coast. After a day basking in the region's renowned waters, a visit to the cliffs at sunset is a must. Above the city, once known as Telmessos to the Lycians, and with a panoramic view of the Aegean Sea as the day's final light fades, lie the Aminthas Rock Tombs. These 4th century BCE carved portals require a small entrance fee of three euros, offering a chance to climb to the main tomb, adorned with Greek-style columns. Though the tomb itself was looted long ago, the view and the proximity to such an ancient site are rewards in themselves. It has become a popular spot for selfies, with some visitors waiting until closing time to capture a photo without the crowds. However, its slightly off-the-beaten-path location means it remains uncrowded, even during the most enchanting hours.

Little is known about the tomb's occupant, Aminthas, other than his relation to Hermapias. The Lycians' death rites remain a mystery. Did these elevated resting places symbolize proximity to the heavens or distance from the underworld? According to local lore, as shared by guide Önder Uğuz, the Lycians placed their dead in cliff crevices or beach tombs to be carried to the afterlife by a winged, siren-like creature. However, no archaeological evidence supports this claim. The mystery deepens, as noted by Catherine Draycott, an associate professor of archaeology at Durham University in the UK, who has studied the Lycian cliff tombs, sarcophagi, and the rare pillar tombs. The Lycians inhabited the region for centuries, developing their funerary monuments from the 5th century BCE, during a time when the area was under Greek, Roman, and Persian control or influence. These tombs are among the few physical remnants of the Lycian civilization.

Draycott suggests that while some speculate the Lycians had an obsession with death, much of our understanding of their beliefs is speculative. "We can hypothesize that there might be economic status differences among those who commissioned the tombs, but that is not confirmed. The visibility of the tombs is clearly significant, not just their location on a road, but their prominence from a distance. Do we know why? No." More impressive rock-cut tombs can be found northwest of Fethiye, near Dalyan, and several other sites to the south and east, including the ancient city of Myra, near the modern Turkish town of Demre. Here, the cliffside necropolis looms over what later became a prosperous Roman city, with a theater whose ruins still stand today. Visitors can enter the ground-level tombs, but those higher up, adorned with intricate carvings, are inaccessible.

The cliff tombs share a commonality with the unique pillar tombs found at the inland Lycian site of Xanthos: the elevation of the deceased towards the sky. The significance of this practice remains speculative, as Draycott points out. "We cannot determine if there is a connection between Lycian beliefs and sky gods," she says, noting that ancient death traditions from the Mediterranean Levant region were more focused on Chthonic spirits believed to reside underground. "The tombs certainly suggest a preference for not being buried and a desire to be elevated—but it is unclear if those buried higher had any advantage, although one could argue that their status was greater in terms of tomb competition, as they would have needed to transport their masons to such heights." Draycott theorizes that tombs on pillars might have been a form of community building, using ancestor worship to create myths and genealogical loyalty to foster a more cohesive society during times of unrest.

While many of the main Lycian burial sites are designed to be prominent parts of the cityscape, the sheer number of tombs scattered throughout the region means that some have become part of the natural landscape. This is why one might see cars casually driving past a sarcophagus in the middle of the road at Fethiye or find one stuck in a traffic circle in the coastal resort town of Kaş. There's also a rock-carved tomb, seemingly ignored, next to a capsicum farm, miles from any settlement. Kaş, another jewel of the Turquoise Coast, is a tourist town where pleasant evenings are spent wandering through lanes of boutique shops (and tombs) and moving between open-air bars and restaurants along the bustling harbor.

For those seeking adventure before donning their finest attire, a trip to the hill behind Lykia Cadesi is recommended. There, almost hidden by flowering shrubs, a sign for "Lycian rock tombs" points up a steep staircase. The steps lead to one tomb, with more hidden further up the cliff for those willing to scramble up daunting rock faces. While not requiring expert climbing skills, a head for heights and strong nerves are beneficial. This location offers spectacular views at sunset, with panoramic vistas over Kaş and beyond to the Aegean. However, it is advised not to delay the descent until it gets too dark.

The region offers numerous less strenuous Lycian tomb explorations. Along the coast between Kaş and Demre lies the village of Kaleüçağız, where regular boat tours depart to view the nearby ruins of a sunken ancient Greek city and also visit a Lycian tomb standing in water. Kaleüçağız also has other Lycian treasures. A short walk along a rugged track heading east out of the village leads to Theimussa Ancient City, a collection of colossal sarcophagi amidst giant boulders, overlooking the nearby bay. The size of these stone tombs and their heavy lids, as Draycott explains, is an indication of the status of those interred within. "It would have been a significant undertaking," she says, "Those lids weigh tons." Despite the rich history available at Theimussa, it remains a tranquil spot, with a high likelihood of having it to oneself, as most visitors are drawn to the sunken city. A towel can be brought for a quiet solo swim to admire the tombs from the offshore.

Back in Kaleüçağız, more tombs can be found unceremoniously placed in parking lots. While this wealth of history can be astounding for visitors, for locals, these enduring relics of a long-gone civilization can sometimes simply blend into the background. "I don't really care about the historical things," says a young man waiting tables at the family-owned Gönül Cafe on the edge of the village. "I prefer nature and sport."